I hate to admit this, but until yesterday I was ignorant to the situation currently in Korea and the history of the division. I knew of the Korean War in the '50s from American movies and TV shows. I knew that North Korea was currently in a dire situation with poverty, human rights crimes. I also was aware that they are possibly the makers of nuclear weapons and that their leader Kim Jong-Il wouldn't be somebody I would want to run into on the street. I knew that people like Lisa Ling's sister get arrested after being accused of spying and that Bill Clinton gets them out, but like I said--the entirety of the situation was not something that I was ever truly aware of. I did not know that a million families- wives from husbands, children from parents, brothers from brothers, were still separated from each other to this day.
So I will share what I was taught yesterday both about the history and the current situation. I will try to describe my experience in a way that will express what was being felt yesterday while there.
North and South Korea are still currently at war. There is a stand-still at the moment, a kind of peace agreement, but it is still very much an active war. I didn't quite realize this until at the DMZ ((Demilitarized Zone). I signed up for a tour…a popular tourist activity while visiting Korea, wanting to know more about the situation and see what was really up, but thinking it would be a relatively mild, if not a "fake" portrayal of what was really going on. I was wrong. It was very real.
As we took the hour bus trip up North we were explained to by our tour guide what we would be seeing and the history of the divide. After WWII Korea was still a unified country. However shortly after for seemingly no reason at all the Northerners pushed south and took Seoul in 4 days. They eventually took the entire south of the peninsula with the exception of 10% in the very south in less than 3 months. UN troops came in and pushed them back up North and this was the beginning of a back and forth battle that lasted from 1950-53. What we all know as the Korean War. After this there was an agreement to make the DMZ, a 4 km wide zone that stretched across the width of the country with 2 km divided up to each side. Inside this there would be a joint security area (JSA) where neutrality would be accepted. That is a very quick and general overview but it brings us to the first stop on the tour.
We went to a little place that was almost like a truck stop 15 mins from the DMZ. With North Korea in sight, we knew we were getting so very close. Other evidence was the barbed wire that went along one side. This place was a place of memorial. To remember the Korean war in the 50s. It was also a place of hope for unification.


Beautiful ponds and landscaping make it a place where people would want to come and hope that at some point the 2 parts of Korea will be united again.

It also has artifacts from the Korean War, such as this train that was destroyed at the time.

After we left this place and got back on the bus to go to the DMZ, we went along a bridge that was made by the founder of Hyundai. Unfortunately until we got into the JSA, we were prohibited from taking more pictures until told too, but this is his interesting story sans photos. He was from the North and defected to the South after selling cows and stealing some of his parents money, he left his entire family and escaped. He began selling rice from the side of the road in the South and that was the beginning of Hyundai Motors, the 2nd largest company in SK until his death and further separation of the company to his children a few years ago. In the 90s he built this "Unification bridge" and sent over 1001 cows and other aid to North Korea.
As we were driving, and passed the first passport security check stop, the landscape got more and more stunning as the tour guide's speech got more and more frightening. It was strange looking out the window of the bus at lush mountains and greenery and swamp land with beautiful white cranes flying around and resting in the water by the hundreds. It was strange because at the same moment, we were being explained to that we were surrounded on either side by live land mines and the things we were driving under every so often were full of bombs (see picture below ....first grounds defence). Any enemies trying to enter or leave would "hopefully" not get far.

We were also being told about the rules and how we were to not leave the group, make any gestures to North Korean soldiers, use any cameras that have a large zoom and not get out of our lines of 2 until told. We did not want to give the "North Koreans any reason to snap" our South Korean guide said "don't think they won't because they are", as she said "crazy and can and WILL snap if given any reason to at all" including thinking for any reason at all that we were containing weapons or that we were spies. This is what we knew as we crossed under the sign to Camp Bonifas and got out for our debriefing before entering the DMZ.

We later found out the ironic serenity of the place was because there is nobody that lives near that area (unlike the rest of the very populated country) except for in one little village called Freedom Town that is located in the DMZ area. It is very small and it is made up of mostly rice farmers, but the men are exempt from the compulsory 21 month south korean military service and the citizens do not have to pay government tax. The only other people in that area are the soldiers from the states and south korea that live at Camp Bonifas. Again, no pictures were allowed to be taken at camp bonifas, but there is an interesting story as to how it got its name. The area you will see photos of soon within the DMZ is the Joint Security Area. The JSA was as I have mentioned before neutral when formed. The base is a little outside of this area, but the soldiers from it would have worked in the JSA. Neutrality disappeared in 1976 when a poplar tree was blocking 2 of the 4 checkpoints the North Koreans put up within the JSA. It was ordered by 2 american officers to trim the tree that once stood here where this memorial now stands.

Because it was a neutral area, major weapons were not allowed inside, but on this day workers came in with axes to do the trimming. KPA (North Korean soldiers) came in and took the axes and brutally murdered the 2 American officers, Bonifas and Burnette. This is why the base camp is now called Camp Bonifas. Luckilly, there has been few tragedies within the DMZ area since then.
We then made our way into the JSA. One half now North, one half South. Sadly, in the middle there is a peace tower that was made for families to have reuninions--this has never been used. The last time anyone could openly change locations was when POWS were released in the 50s and allowed to cross this bridge to whichever side they please, on the condition they never return.

We got out of the bus now with military escorts and walked through the South Korean side main building's front entrance to the other side of it and we walked down some steps and saw blue buildings and a building similar to the one we just walked through. The blue buildings are the only neutral things left. We saw North and South Korean soldiers guarding their individual side. An interesting fact is that Northerners are much shorter because of the lack of Westernized (hormone filled) food. It is also interesting when looking at the pictures to think that these men never speak to each other or make contact. They are both ready to jump on one another at a seconds notice and the scarier thought is that they could even be brothers.
This picture shows what I saw looking over to the North side. That is their main building. The soldiers closer to that building are Northerners. The ones facing the building and that are standing closer to me are from the South. All that separates them is a risen beam on the ground.

We then entered into that blue building on the lefthand side. Once inside we could walk around to either side of it, meaning YES I was indeed standing on North Korean (tile) soil. As you can see I was protected by a Rock Soldier (standing in a tae-kwan doe fighting position).

Once inside I managed to get a photo of a North Korean soldier through the window. He is not putting on a show like the guards do in front of Buckingham palace. He is very much prepared to fight at given (or not given?) notice. They are trained in such a way that is almost, if not, brainwash. The South Koreans have a mandatory 21 month army placement, the North Koreans have a mandatory 13 years, where they are not allowed to go home and see their families at any point in time.

We went back outside and stood once again on the steps of the building that looked almost identical to the one we were looking across too. All of a sudden, the strangest thing happened. I haven't felt that particular feeling inside since being in Rwanda and hearing the tragic stories from people who were apparently happy, but had the emptiest eyes I had ever seen. This was a different situation, but still left me with a pit in my stomach that I cannot put into words. We were looking across snapping pictures for our limited time to the North side when North Korean tourists came down their steps and proceeded in doing the exact same thing. On the surface it is rather a funny thing- 2 groups of people snapping photos of one another, I mean these people have probably never seen white people before in person let alone been so close to them. I was expecting to be a tad close to a soldier, but I never expected I would be standing so close to so many everyday people, just like you or I. We can stand across from one another and take photos, but we cannot allow families to be reunited and peace be returned? War is a very, very strange thing, especially in modern times. No matter at what point in time though, always so awful.


Also, we noticed the Northerners had much larger cameras and had purses and bags with them too. We were allowed to bring nothing except a small point and shoot camera. The North Koreans made these rules and the South Koreans are careful to oblige.
We then turned around and walked inside. The North Korean tourists did the same. We got back on our bus and I am sure they did too. We went and had lunch and because of the time of day, I am assuming they did too. It's a crazy world we live in, isn't it?
Although not a trip to the park, I recommend this experience to anyone in South Korea and those who ever plan on visiting. It is one that makes me thankful to live where I do and also see how remarkable the South Koreans are to have stood up to the North Koreans and proceed in becoming an economical and societal powerhouse, especially when their main city, one of the biggest and most modern cities in the world, is a mere hours drive to the "demilitarized -sure!" war zone.
- Unfortunately the blog site was not letting me enlarge my photos today. I believe you can go to the side of the blog page though and look at photos separately and by clicking on them they get larger!*